Docsconz- The Blog

The Farmers Market Conundrum

Anyone who knows me personally or reads my blog (or the eGullet Forums) knows that I love Farmers Markets in general and especially the ones local to me. They are great for buying top quality food and supporting an important element of the local or greater regional community (for all the urban dwellers). I love the variety, freshness and social aspects of the market - all things that are extremely difficult to impossible to get in a supermarket, including even the best ones. I also think that when one considers the quality and entertainment factors, they represent excellent value on the dollar.

I am not, however, uncritical. I can understand and appreciate that farmers markets are selective, usually employing strict rules as to what vendors can and cannot sell at the markets. The markets should certainly be vigilant about making sure that their vendors sell only high quality products that were grown, raised or prepared within their particular catchment area. Sometimes, the rules can be somewhat loose when it comes to artisanal food products, such as the peanut butter vendor at some of the local markets even though peanuts are not grown anywhere near our region. I don't really have a problem with that, so long as the product is artisanally made locally and of high quality. I am not interested in excluding vendors so long as what they are selling is of quality and within the framework of the market. But here is the the conundrum. What I do not understand is the Market's exclusion of top quality farm-raised products from specific farm vendors. For example, why can't a local farm that raises some of the best free-range pigs around and has some of the finest pork in the area, not sell their pork at the same market at which they sell their equally high quality grass-fed beef? While there are other vendors selling both of those items, the market is not over-saturated with either. I think that markets would garner even more support if they allowed all the farmers to sell all of their items of quality.

Summer in the Adirondacks - Views of Blue Mountain Lake

The hamlet of Blue Mountain Lake is the quintessential Adirondack town. Situated in the center of the Adirondack Park it overlooks one of the state's most beautiful bodies of water. It is also home to the incredible Adirondack Museum, one of the best museums of its kind anywhere. As a way to get a quick and accurate feel for what makes the Adirondack Park unique and wonderful, there is nothing better than a visit to this museum and town. The drive is lovely, the museum is thorough and informative without being preachy or stale and the gift shop is outstanding, offering many well-made and delightful items distinct to the area at reasonable prices. Even the cafeteria is worthwhile! No first time visit to the Adirondacks should miss this introduction to the history, culture and style of the region.

Blue Mountain Lake

Taste of the Week - June 21-27

When I was growing up, lasagne was the go-to meal for special family occasions. My mother baked a mean lasagne based on an approach combined both from her and my father's families. Her trick was to use a lot more ricotta than most recipes - one pound per pound of pasta. Combined with a tomato meat sauce that included chopped beef and pork sausage and plenty of mozzarella to add a gooey chewiness, it provided a fully satisfying meal. Fortunately, my non-Italian wife learned to make lasagne from my mother.

This past week, we hosted a family reunion with my wife's family and cousins from out west on the shore of Lake George, N.Y.,  staying in lovely little cabins at the Takundewide resort. Since it was a special family occasion, my wife prepared my mother's lasagne. In addition to the fact that the dish is  (and was) quite delicious, the nostalgia factor puts it over the top for me. My mother would be proud.

Ramblings in Italy – Puglia - Via Paradiso

I Have Been to Paradise – At Peppe Zullo’s
Via Paridiso
by Rocco Verrigni

My first full day in Puglia continues the familiar theme set from the beginning of my trip; that is a day full of great food, conversation and conviviality. I continue to be made aware of the importance and goodness of great quality food, from the land, prepared simply and with heart. Interestingly enough, Peppe Zullo’s credo, business model and slogan is “From the Land to the Table”. Not just a marketing slogan, it is quite evident to me that he walks his talk. As he guided me around his compound, complete with a vineyard, a winery, meticulously-kept gardens, livestock, banquet facilities and restaurant, I knew I was with someone who has true passion for what he does and who epitomizes Slow Food. His place is located on via Paradiso. After my tour I felt like I was in paradise. This was only the beginning of my day and the first of several days that I will remain in “paradiso”.

Not only did I get to spend the whole day in the kitchen and observe preparation and service of the days meals,  in between all the action, I sat at a table straddling the open kitchen and a small dining room, and tasted each of the courses as they were served to the quests. I lost track somewhere around 8. Every once in a while Peppe would appear from nowhere to make sure I was not only observing everything in the kitchen but that I was trying every single course that went to the dining room. His energy and presence is infectious. I was not only treated like a valued guest but also as a colleague and friend.

Peppe’s model for his restaurants and to live by “dalla terra alla tavola”, from “the land to the table” is evident as one walks around his vast properties. It can be seen at his school, where there are banquet facilities, gardens, cultivated farmland, wooded areas that are full of wild herbs, and greens, as well as at his restaurant with vineyards, an extensive underground cantina, gardens and production  area for preserving fruit and vegetables for off-season use, and curing his pork products.  

Summer on Lake George - June 2009

Retro Photo - Flying Pigs Farm 2005

Jenn Small with some of her heritage breed Tamworth pigs at Flying Pigs Farm in Shushan, N.Y. during the summer of 2003. Flying Pigs farm's heritage pork has since become a staple at the Union Square and other NYC greenmarkets as well as NYC and local restaurants - great stuff!

The Abattoir - Poultry - Warning: Graphic Images

Done once or twice a week, today at The Garden of Spices it was the time for the processing of live poultry, a process done at the farm for their own birds as well as those from other area farms. This is reality. As an omnivore, I do not shy away from the necessities that bring meat to my table. I do my best, however, to assure that it comes from farms where the animals are raised humanely and abattoirs where they are slaughtered as humanely and cleanly as possible. The Garden of Spices, a true small family farm, fits on both counts.

Please do not read the rest of this post if you are not prepared to see graphic images of a poultry slaughterhouse.

On the Farm - The Garden of Spices

I went to pick up some fresh chickens today to cook for visiting relatives tomorrow. The farm, called The Garden of Spices, is one of the area's premiere poultry farms and one of the few that has its own abattoir. Located in Greenwich, N.Y. they handle slaughtering duties not only for themselves, but also for most of the area farms that raise poultry. They raise their birds free-range in movable coops. Along with chickens they also raise and sell duck and guinea fowl. The birds feed on everything that these poultry normally feed on in a free-range situation. Their slaughtering process is done once or twice a week, today being that day. On this post I will simply show the birds on the farm. In the subsequent post, I will show photos of the slaughter process. The photos are graphic and may be unsettling to some. I do, however, feel that it is important to understand where food comes from and how it gets to our table. I have no problem eating meat from animals that are raised and slaughtered humanely. Unfortunately, witnessing the slaughter is never easy, but the process is real and a necessary one if one is going to have meat to eat. The process at The Garden of Spices is a clean and efficient one, which is attested to by the superior product that comes from there, whether the birds have been raised there or at other farms. Amongst their customers are a number of restaurants in the NY metropolitan area.

Ducks and ducklings on the pond




Ducklings


Recently hatched chick


Wandering rooster and duck


Chicks in the movable coop


Señor Rooster


Movable coop


Ducks and guinea hens in a movable coop


Flying guinea fowl


Canned chicken

To come: the next post will portray the slaughtering process. Warning: it will be quite graphic. Please do not look at it if you are easily upset or prefer not to know how meat gets to one's plate.

Cherry Pie

My wife bakes the best pies. Her crusts are buttery and crisp and her fillings are always well-balanced and never too sweet. One of the best that she makes is cherry pie. This is made with local, in-season sour cherries from Saratoga Apple. I can't wait.

Madrid Fusion Day Three - Dissonant Flavors - Gennaro Esposito

I could not and did not make the first presentations of the day. Ther evening before, I and a number of other people had become sick from something, presumably something that we had eaten. I first noticed not feeling well shortly after I had left the reception for the Barack Obama inauguration. Unfortunately, it prevented me from eating anything at the gala dinner at The Casino de Madrid. I did show up, but before long realized that being there, as much as I really, really wanted to, was not a good idea. I made my way back to my hotel and spent a miserable night. Fortunately, however, I had improved enough by the next morning to rally and make it to the Congress, albeit a little later than I would have liked.

Gennaro Esposito's Torre del Saracino restaurant in Vico Equense outside of Naples is a restaurant that I have heard much of in recent years, though not before my last time in Naples. Esposito is known for cooking apparently simple food with great knowledge and precision.

Esposito uses mediterranean ingredients from his native Campania for his cooking, incorporating ingredients not typically associated with each other. The first dish that he prepared flouted the Italian proscription against seafood and dairy products. Unfortunately, I did not get a good photo of the dish, but he combined red mullet strips with a warm ricotta "soup" and fresh spinach. He followed this with an unusual two-colored risotto. Prepared with the same base of vegetable broth, he put two different colored risottos on the same plate.

The yellow risotto was finished with saffron, which was added at the end of the preparation to preserve its aroma. The black risotto utilized cuttlefish ink and thin-cut strips of cuttlefish added after the risotti were separated. On top are quenelles of sun-dried tomato paste and cuttlefish liver.

   

The third dish prepared by Esposito was a tortello en brodo. in which he stuffed the tortello with parmesan, shrimp and pork. Esposito used the butt end of a Parmesan wheel in his broth and finished the dush with dried tomato, lemon and shrimp roe.

With My Father

This photo was taken on a cruise I took with my father in 1995, about a year and a half before he passed away. That cruise was one of the best things I ever did, because I got the chance to get to know my father in a way that I never had previously. I am so glad that we did it. The cruise itself was ok with nice, but typical Caribbean destinations, but the opportunity to spend time together in a relaxed atmosphere was truly priceless. Happy Fathers Day!

Taste of the Week - June 14-20

Photo taken by Steven Shaw

While at the Blue Smoke hospitality tent at the Big apple BBQ last Sunday, I had the opportunity to try some BBQ pork belly "spaghetti." The belly separated easily into individual "strands" of "spaghetti" and went down so smoothly and easily despite my already being stuffed to the gills. I have never had pork belly quite like this before. It would make an excellent pasta indeed!

At the Market - June 20th, 2009

Where there are garlic scapes there is usually fresh green garlic and vice versa as scapes are simply the cut off tops of the fresh garlic plants. Scapes add a crunchy texture and mild garlic flavor to use in place of the dried bulbs. I'm not sure how  fresh green garlic bulbs use differs from mature bulbs.It is supposedly milder, sweeter and less bitter. Any thoughts? The NY Times suggests using it with clams.California's famed Mariquita Farms offers some suggestions of their own. The scapes and fresh garlic were photographed at the Kilpatrick Family Farm stand at the Saratoga Farmers Market.

Madrid Fusión - Day Two - Watching History

While there was plenty of culinary history being made at the Congress, by late Tuesday afternoon, I and many other Americans at the Congress were interested in observing history of a different sort - the inauguration of the first black President of the United States - Barack Obama. As such, a number of us left the Congress early in order to find a place to watch the inauguration. Harold McGee and I joined a mass of American ex-pats and visitors at the Hotel InterContinental, where a number of large screen tv's were set up within a large ballroom. The scene was euphoric as Barack Obama became President of the United States.

From Our Garden - Thyme Flowers

Thyme is such a wonderful herb. I use it for so many things. That the flowers are so delicate and pretty is a bonus.

From Our Garden - Lavender

Our lavender is blooming. How do you use lavender?

From Our Garden - Peony Past Perfect

Madrid Fusión - Day Two - Los Mexicanos

This year's Madrid Fusión regional focus was on Mexico with some of Mexico's most well known and best chefs invited and attending. At the conclusion of Enrique Olvera's presentation, they gathered for special recognition. They are from L-R: Ricardo Muñoz, Enrique Olvera, Bricio Dominguez, Patricia Quintana and Mónica Patiño.

Madrid Fusión Day Two - The Mexican Avant Garde - Enrique Olvera

Enrique Olvera cooks in Mexico at his restaurant Pujol located in Mexico City, but in many respects his approach to cooking is not dissimilar to his contemporary peers in Spain. His ingredients are different and the tradition from whence he derives his inspiration is different, but like many contemporary Spanish chefs, his inspiration comes from the deep rooted culinary traditions of his country. Olvera cooks with a modern sensibility but with a traditional palette. The title of his presentation was "The Mexican Avant Garde: Conceptual Dishes with Roots."  Olvera's approach does not so much use the techniques of the modern kitchen as to create a very personal cuisine based upon the ingredients and traditions of his homeland. His approach is to highlight special ingredients with references to traditions such as moles, but in new guises and presentations. Having eaten at his restaurant, Pujol, in 2006, I can attest to the skill and success of his dishes.

Olvera presented three dishes, none of which were the ones highlighted by Madrid Fusion. Thanks to the courtesy of Chef Olvera, he has provided me with the recipes for the dishes that he did prepare and present.

SEA BASS “CEBICHE”
4 servings

INGREDIENTS

Sea bass fillet, medium dice            600 gr
Red onion (julienne)                30 gr
Serrano chilli (sliced)                30 gr
Cherry Tomato                    4 pieces
Coriander                    as needed
Grated lemon rind                as needed

Vinaigrette

Olive Oil                    150 ml
Lime juice                    50 ml
Salt                        as needed

Avocado purée

Avocado                    1 piece
Olive Oil                    as needed
Lime juice                    as needed
Salt                        as needed

Tortilla paper

Flour                        50 gr
Corn flour                    150 gr
Water                        75 ml
Salt                        as needed

Procedure

Vinaigrette

Put all the ingredients in a bowl and mix; check salt and reserve.

Cebiche

Cut the fish into cubes of 1 x 1 cm, put inside of a vacuum packed bag with the vinaigrette, into a moderate pressure, until the fish absorbs all the oil and lime juice; let it settle for 4 minutes. Open the bag and serve on a plate with the cherry tomato, the red onion and the serrano chilli.

Avocado purée

Put all the ingredients in a bowl and mix, pass through a chinoise. Reserve into a bottle.

Tortilla paper

Mix the ingredients in a bowl until getting a homogeneous paste, pass through a chinoise and put on a tray with silpat. Bake at 100ªC for 20 minutes. Reserve.

Assemble

______

 

“ESQUITES” WITH MAYONNAISE GELATIN
4 servings

INGREDIENTS

Corn mixture

White corn                    6 pieces
Blue corn                    6 pieces                                
Pozole corn                    .500 kg
Epazote                      1 branch   
Finely sliced garlic                2 pieces
Finely sliced white onion                        1 piece
Butter                                                       50 gr

Mayonnaise gelatin

Egg yolk                    1     
Dijon Mustard                    ¼ tablespoon
Oil                        125 ml
Olive Oil                    125 ml
Lime juice                    10 ml
Salt                        as needed
Gelatin sheet                    10 gr
Water                         25 ml

White fresh grated cheese                  100 gr
Piquín pepper                               50 gr

Procedure

Corn mixture

•    Remove the kernals from each type of corn and keep separate.
•    Rinse the pozole corn, boil in cold salted water.
•    In a separate pot, boil blue corn kernels in cold salted water. Cook until both are totally softened, strain, rinse and reserve both.
•    Sautee the butter, garlic and onion in a tall saucepan. Add the white corn’ kernals, cover with cold water, add the epazote branch and “the olotes” (Corn’s cobs) of each one.  Cook about 1 hour. Remove “the olotes” and strain the rest in a chinoise. Keep the strained clear soup separately. Reserve the corn kernels separately. Mix the three types of corn (cold) and keep refrigerated.
•    To warm the mixture, heat in small saucepan with butter and a cup of water. Check salt.

Mayonnaise gelatin

•    In a bowl, soak a gelatin sheet until it gets soft in cold water about 5 minutes, set aside.
•    In a bowl, add the egg yolk with the Dijon mustard and salt. Whisk mixture ‘till fluffy adding oil slowly, end with lemon/lime juice, adjust seasoning. Strain gelatin liquid before adding to mayonnaise.
•    Slowly mix mayonnaise with gelatin liquid and refrigerate in a mold, 1.5 cm height, minimum of 3 hours. Reserve for garnish.

Epazote leaves                                                                                                                  

Heat oil, fry the fresh Mexican tea’s sheets between 2 slotted tablespoons of the same size ‘till crispy, dry on absorbent paper, reserve.

Assembly and Presentation

•    Warm the corn mixture with water, butter and seasoned with salt. Boil the corn broth and season with lemon juice and salt.
•    Cut the mayonnaise gelatin into rectangles of 7 cm length and 2 cm wide.
•    Sprinkle one side of the mayonnaise rectangle with piquin pepper. Use bamboo skewer for mayonnaise gelatin.
•    Serve “the esquites” in a tall (highball) glass; serve the white fresh grated cheese on top. Put on the mayonnaise skewer and a sheet of Mexican tea. Serve separately the seasoned esquite’s broth.

______

“ESCAMOLES” WITH SOIL, CORN BLINIS, GUACAMOLE
4 servings

INGREDIENTS

Escamoles

Escamoles (ant eggs)                100 gr
Garlic (chopped)                10 gr
Epazote                        15 gr
Salt                        as needed
Serrano pepper (brunoise)            10 gr

Soil

Dry chilies                    50 gr
Black achiote                    50 gr
Corn fungus                    100 gr

Corn Blinis

Corn flour                    50 gr
Wheat flour                    50 gr
Egg yolk                    1 piece
Water                        250 ml
Salt                        as needed

Guacamole

Avocado                    1 piece
Salt                        as needed
Lemon (lime)                        1 piece
Serrano pepper                    1 piece

Procedure

Escamoles

Cook the garlic in butter, add the escamoles and cook for 1 minute. Add the chili and the epazote. Season and reserve.

Soil

Dehydrate in oven at 90ªC, once dry, crush to powder and reserve.

Blinis
Put into the blender all the ingredients, mix until it comes to a homogeneous mixture. Put on a Teflon pan, cook and reserve.

Guacamole

Put all the ingredients into a “molcajete”, and grind with the mortar. Reserve

Assemble

Ramblings From Italy - Pesca in Parma

Photo by John M. Sconzo, M.D. of Frog Hollow Peaches

June 16, 2009

A Park in Parma
by Rocco Verrigni

Pesca

How You Know When a Peach is a Peach

While sitting in a small park in Parma on a very hot late spring afternoon (88°), I discovered the following about how you know when a peach is a peach.

A peach is a peach:

    *  When you can close your eyes, smell what you are holding and immediately identify it as a peach
    * When you can, without effort, split the peach exactly in half by just twisting as if you were         opening a bottle or container, without mutilating the fruit
    * When the seed pulls out like it were in butter
    * When you open it and you see the juice as it sprays into the air and falls silently to the ground
    * When, while eating it, the juice oozes from the corners of your mouth and pools onto the bag you are holding on your lap
    * When the pooled juice can be drunk from the bag as if drinking a shot glass of peach juice
    * When an hour later, you are still enjoying the peach because the sweet aroma of it is still radiating from your hands
    * When you know that this is the best peach you have ever had until you have another like it

Now, this is when a peach is a peach!

Ed. Note: The fruit in Italy is second to none, though the Frog Hollow peaches I photographed a couple of years ago by me would have qualified for Rocco's definition.
-John